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An esthetician checks the leg of a client lying on a treatment table at the institute

Permanent hair removal: laser, electrolysis or waxing?

The three techniques do not promise the same thing, and neither does the word "permanent".

Written by Laura Pasqua7 min read

Key takeaways

  • Electrolysis is the only recognized form of permanent hair removal: its devices are cleared in the United States for permanent hair removal. It treats one hair at a time, whatever its colour.
  • Laser is cleared for permanent hair reduction: fewer hairs, finer and lighter, over a series of sessions.
  • Waxing removes the hair without touching the follicle. The result is immediate and lasts a few weeks.
  • The colour of your hair often decides for you: white, grey or very blonde hair does not respond to laser.
  • Many people combine all three: laser for the bulk of the work, electrolysis to finish, waxing in the meantime.

What does truly permanent hair removal mean?

Permanent hair removal reaches the follicle, the small cavity where the hair is made, deeply enough that it stops producing. Of the three techniques, only one officially claims it, and the gap comes down to two words.

A study published in 2022 in the journal Sexual Medicine sums it up: electrolysis devices are FDA-cleared for "permanent hair removal", and laser devices for "permanent hair reduction" (Yuan et al., 2022).

The nuance matters, and it is often missed. The same authors explain that the difference comes from the clearance process itself, not from a comparison of results: electrolysis was in use long before regulation began, while laser arrived with less data behind it.

So keep this in mind. Electrolysis aims for the treated hair to be gone, laser aims for regrowth that is clearly and stably reduced. Waxing makes no claim to anything lasting.

What each technique does to the follicle

Everything happens under the skin, inside the follicle. The three techniques reach it in different ways, and that is what decides what is left afterwards.

  1. Laser

    Light targets the pigment in the hair and travels down it to the root, which it heats. A follicle that is reached then grows a finer hair, or none at all.

  2. Electrolysis

    A very fine probe follows the hair's channel and delivers a controlled electrical energy to the follicle. One hair at a time, with no need for pigment.

  3. Waxing

    It pulls out the whole hair but leaves the follicle in place. The follicle grows a new hair, which takes a few weeks to come back.

Laser: a lasting reduction, over a series

Laser is the technique that covers the most surface, the fastest. Health Canada explains it simply: for hair removal, the laser targets melanin, the dark pigment, in the hair follicle (Health Canada, "Cosmetic laser treatments").

The same page draws the two limits we will also tell you about: the technique works less well on blonde, red, grey or white hair, and most people need several sessions.

Here, we recommend a minimum of 10 sessions for a full series. A single area on its own takes fewer: 6 to 10 for underarms, legs and bikini depending on your hormones, 8 to 10 for the face, 6 to 8 for arms and back.

After that, one maintenance session a year usually picks up the follicles your hormones wake up. Areas, session lengths and prices are on our laser hair removal in Laval page.

Before the series: dark down covers a client's cheek and templeAfter the series: the down on the cheek and jaw is no longer visible, the hairline was not treated

A client of the institute, before and after her laser series on the cheek and temple, photographed with her consent. This is her own result: every skin and every hair growth pattern responds in its own way. The mechanism, phase by phase, is explained in our article on how laser hair removal works.

Electrolysis: the only one cleared as permanent

Electrolysis treats the follicle directly, hair by hair, which makes it the most thorough and the slowest of the three. It looks for no pigment: a white, grey or blonde hair is treated like a dark one.

The 2022 study confirms that electrolysis is generally effective for all skin and hair colours. It adds what you should know before starting: regrowth varies and can reach 15 to 40%, which is why some hairs need more than one pass.

That is also why it is kept for limited areas. The chin, the upper lip, the brow line, a tattooed area the laser has to avoid, or the few light hairs a laser series leaves behind.

At the institute, it is done with the Apilus device, in 15, 30, 45 or 60-minute sessions, after a consultation that estimates the time you will need. The details are on our electrolysis in Laval page.

An esthetician guides the electrolysis probe along a client's chin, under a magnifying lamp

Waxing: immediate, never permanent

Waxing is the only one of the three that leaves your skin smooth the same day. It grips the hair along its visible length and takes it out with its root, whatever its colour.

The follicle itself is untouched. It goes back to work and the hair returns, more slowly than after a razor, since it has to grow back from the bottom. Allow a few weeks before your next appointment.

It is an excellent method, just not a permanent one. It helps before a trip, it suits pregnancy on healthy skin, and it treats the areas where you do not do laser. Areas and prices are on our waxing page.

A spatula of warm wax spread on a client's leg, over a cotton towel

Which one to choose, for your hair?

For permanent or simply long-lasting hair removal, start with the colour of your hair, then the size of the area. Those two questions settle most cases before the consultation even starts.

  • Dark hair, large area (legs, underarms, bikini, back)

    The technique that fits
    Laser
  • White, grey or very blonde hair

    The technique that fits
    Electrolysis
  • A few stray hairs on the chin or upper lip

    The technique that fits
    Electrolysis
  • A tattooed area

    The technique that fits
    Electrolysis
  • Light hairs left after a laser series

    The technique that fits
    Electrolysis
  • A result for this week

    The technique that fits
    Waxing
  • A current pregnancy

    The technique that fits
    Waxing, on healthy skin

A word about skin: our laser, the Elite iQ by Cynosure, carries two wavelengths and treats skin types 1 to 6, from very fair to very dark skin. It is the colour of the hair that limits the laser, not the colour of the skin.

If your case does not fit a single row of the table, we look at it together at the free consultation. All three techniques and their prices are on our hair removal in Laval page.

Frequently asked questions

Does permanent hair removal really exist?

Yes, one hair at a time. Electrolysis is the only technique cleared for permanent hair removal, because it acts directly on the follicle that makes the hair. Even then, some hairs need more than one pass before they stop growing back. Laser aims for a lasting reduction in hair, and that is the term you will see on a serious device.

Why does electrolysis take so long?

Because it treats each follicle one by one, with a probe guided by hand. A laser covers a leg in one session, electrolysis moves hair by hair. That is why it suits small areas and stray hairs, and why it often completes laser without replacing it.

Can I switch from waxing to laser?

Yes, and it is a common path. One condition: stop waxing and tweezing the area for the whole series, because they remove the root the laser needs to reach. Shaving is fine between sessions, since it cuts the hair at the surface and leaves the root in place.

Which technique for white or grey hair?

Electrolysis. The laser finds its target through pigment, and white or grey hair does not contain enough of it. No setting and no number of sessions changes that. Waxing removes it too, but only for a while.

Do men have access to the same techniques?

Yes, all three. The back, chest, nape and beard line are treated with laser, stray hairs with electrolysis, and waxing remains possible everywhere. Our section for men brings together the areas and treatments designed for them.

How much does permanent hair removal cost?

It depends on the technique and the area. A laser session starts at $45 depending on the area, electrolysis is booked by time, from $30 for 15 minutes, and waxing starts at $15. Laser costs more per visit, but the series comes to an end, while waxing starts over every few weeks. We give you an estimate for your area at the consultation.

Laura Pasqua, founder of L'Institut Béa

Written by

Laura Pasqua

Founder of L'Institut Béa, naturopath and esthetician

One-year naturopathy training at the Collège de médecine douce du Québec, RITMA member number 6797. She does the consultations, builds the plans, and trains people in the field on how to use the technologies. She runs laser sessions herself.

A portrait in warm light, bare skin and freckles

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